Dapper Demeanor

Dapper Tracks Returns

2011-10-21T12:45:00.003-04:00

Dapper Tracks returns with a mix I did for my homie, Liam. Head over to his site for the download, but in the mean time enjoy this streaming version. It's mobile friendly so you can bump it on your iPhone on the train ride home.

volume

CB x Gaws Late Night Mix

Product Review: McNairy Burro Boots

2011-08-30T01:47:00.001-04:00

Wow. Seems like it's been forever since the last post. As some of you may know, I recently moved from Lexington, VA to Washington, D.C. Things have been a little hectic, but they are starting to return to what some people might consider normalcy. All that aside, fall is now right around the corner. It's my favorite time of year because it offers the best colors, the best fabric, the best pieces of clothing, and the best footwear. Boots are a no-go in the dead of the summer, but they are one of my favorite parts about fall. The McNairy Burro Boots made a bit of a splash when Lawrence got the drop on them back in February. One part work boot, one part Central American heritage the Burro Boot is a great option for someone looking for a change of pace from your typical desert boot this fall.

Made in El Salvador by Empresas ADOC, the Burro Boot is interesting because it's a blend of highs and lows. One the one hand, they are made from a high quality suede with a softness that is extremely noticeable as soon you take them out of the box. On the other, they feature a tough vulcanized rubber sole, reinforced agatine eyelets, and a surprisingly sturdy toe-box. I'm not advocating violence, but if you kicked someone in the jaw with these... there might be some head trauma involved.

Many, myself included, have developed an appreciation for an Italian aesthetic that includes lovely suede chukka boots that can easily be styled with tailored suiting and so much sprezzatura that your silk pocket square can't stay in your breast pocket. These aren't those boots. They are meant to do work. They are street beaters in a very literal since of the term. With a white t-shirt and raw denim, they are a good autumn replacement for sneakers. This is a "day on the town" look and is about as "dressed up" as you can do in the Burros, in my opinion. The heft of corduroy, flannel, and denim complement the silhouette of the boot, and the texture of the silk knit helps add a bit of refinement to the look. Some might complain about the shortness of the tie, but again this is casual. Rather than fuss over the knot, I tied it once and left it at that. It's the perfect fall "day date" look. Whether you are in NYC and taking a special someone to brunch and then the MoMA, or you are in DC and are visiting the National Gallery before an early dinner and drinks on U-Street it's got your bases covered.

The McNairy Burro Boot comes in four different colors: grey, navy, tan, and brown. They can be found exclusively at Opening Ceremony and are available now.

Special thanks to the folks at BPMW for sending me a pair of boots to review. If you are interesting in having products reviewed here on Dapper Demeanor, send inquiries to cbenjamin@dapperdemeanor.com

CB Does Market Week Part 1: An Introduction

2011-07-21T10:00:00.001-04:00

The credentials for (capsule)... still wearing this joint

As some of you may know, I recently got a new position in Washington, D.C. and have since left the bustling metropolis that is Lexington, VA. Before I officially started my new position, I wanted to take some time and experience Market Week in NY. There were a host of menswear tradeshows happening between July 16th and 19th, and not long after unpacking (some of) my belongings in D.C. I hopped on a bus to the Big Apple. I split my time between two shows in particular: (capsule) and PROJECT NYC.

l-r: Mariah Kunkel, Johnny Ridley,
Marisa Zupan, Jonathan Evans

Of course I was not the only blogger that made the trip out to NYC for the festivities. Hand's down my favorite part of the week was putting faces and personalities with Tumblr and Twitter handles that I have been interacting with for months. As one person said, it's just like the first two weeks of college all over again: you meet people and within 5 minutes of conversation you have become best friends. You will be surprised who has heard of you, and even if they haven't introduce yourself and build that connection.

Nick Wooster at PROJECT

I think there is this misconception that events like (capsule) are highly exclusive and open to only the most important in the style world, and that certainly is not the case... at least not entirely. These shows are designed for buyers to see what brands and pieces they wish to carry in-store the upcoming season, and for the press (bloggers included) to see what trends are happening and to build relationships with brands they wish to promote. If you want to go it's really simple: register. Come correct, though. This should merely be an opportunity for you to see what you want in your closet. I strongly recommend making business cards. You never know who you will meet and what connections/collaborations will come about.

Lawrence Schloassman with James Wilson

Admittedly I was a tad bit green going into this trip (it also came together at the very last minute on the heals of a massive relocation), so I didn't have cards. Please believe that when the next round of shows rolls around in Jan/Feb I will have cards (and hopefully a nice camera) ready to go. This go round, I was a bit more interested in meeting fellow bloggers and seeing a few things from particular brands (as well as vacationing before my new job started) than the actual business of blogging. I did, however, take some notes and will be doing a brief rundown of some of my favorite brands from both PROJECT and (capsule).

I had an absolute blast. I was actually able to work PROJECT a bit on Tuesday for Por Homme as a part of the Blogger Project set up by Marcus Troy, so I saw a bit of the behind the scenes there. Both shows had their strengths, and next go round I plan on seeing some of the other shows to broaden my coverage. Stay tuned for highlights from both shows!

Gaws x Dapper Tracks: Summer Tracks vol. 2 pt. 2

2011-06-24T13:00:00.003-04:00

After the success of the first tape, the homie Liam has produced yet another great summer soundtrack. Streaming player and track listing are available after the jump.

SUMMER TRACKS VOLUME 2 HOE by Gaws

Investigators Groove | Calypso King & The Soul Investigators

The Hop | A Tribe Called Quest

In My Lifetime (Remix) | Jay-Z

Oakland Blackouts | Hieroglyphics

Ijustwannachill | Large Professor

Top Of The World | Rascalz with Barrington Levy & K-Os

A Community Service Announcement | Jonathan Boulet

Be Good - Tokyo Police Club

Deadbeat Summer | Neon Indian

Radar Rider | Mr. Flash

Its Automatic | Zoot Woman

Ghost Town | The Specials

Twelve Roses | Beach Fossils

Age Of Consent | New Order

The Other Man | Sloan

Cab Fare feat. Soul Of Mischief | Hieroglyphics

Wonderful Place | NERD

Police & Thieves | Cover of original song by The Clash

Hello Tomorrow | Karen O

Gang Green

2011-06-24T11:23:00.001-04:00

First and foremost, I offer my deepest apologies for the delay in posting but I big things on the horizon for me as well as Dapper Demeanor. Summer is upon us meaning that wool, for the most part, is out and cotton is in and neutral tones are moved to the wayside for brighter more vibrant colors. The term "Go To Hell" has been attributed to about everything from shoes to body parts (???), but where I think it's most appropriate is big ticket items like pants and suiting. This fit is an example of what a pair of "Go To Hell" chinos can do for a stylish but otherwise mundane outfit.

Unstructured cotton blazer: check. Chambray shirt: been there. Canvas sneakers: done that. What makes this fit interesting is the chinos. Of course khaki would have worked just as well, but Kelly green really makes the fit pop. Pretty much any of the "standard stylish kits" you will hear recommended on the internets can be improved with a pair of brightly colored chinos. While one may be tempted try to O.D. on color, I think that brightly colored pants or blazers look better when they are surrounded by more understated pieces. This is more of an "After 5" outfit for me. I might ditch the blazer if I was going to just hang out a friends place with others, but if we might go out I would certainly keep it handy.

When it comes to shirt buttons, anything more than 2 in a casual setting is usually dangerous territory. Should you decide to pop that third button, make sure that things are in order. It usually looks better on guys that are in some semblance of shape that have average to long torsos and not an overwhelming amount of chest hair. I will come right out and say it: don't ask me or anyone else about "manscaping" your chest. Don't talk about it; be about it.

Gaws x Dapper Tracks: Summer Tracks vol. 2

2011-04-29T14:40:00.000-04:00

While I was putting together the Dapper Tracks S/S Mixtape, the big homie Liam, over at Gaws, mentioned that he was interested in putting something together as well. What came about is an amazing blend, perfect for a Sunday drive, a Saturday barbeque, or 2:30 pm on a Friday stuck at your desk waiting for 5:00 to hit. If you don't know Liam, he is a pretty popular guy on the internets. His Tumblr is like a mixture of an art gallery, a designers showroom, and a comedy club. Together with his biting wit, great ear for music, and penchant for Chappelle Show quotes make him one of my favorite bloggers out there. Pour something cold to drink, open the windows, and press play. Download link after the jump.
Gaws Presents: Summer Tracks vol. 2 for Dapper Demeanor by gaws

Download

Polo Shirts: The Stylish Man's T-Shirt

2011-04-18T16:14:00.000-04:00

A few weeks ago, I posted a series of polo shirts that I really liked on Tumblr. This sparked a small conversation on the place of polo shirts in a stylish man's wardrobe. Some thought they had no place while others believe them to be a necessity. I fall somewhere in the middle of this argument: while polo shirts are by no means a requirement, they are the stylish man's t-shirt: you really can't go wrong with a well fitting polo shirt. These are examples of how one can wear a polo shirt a few different ways.

Polo-Hickey | Pants and NATO Strap-J. Crew | Watch-Timex | Shoes-Calvin Klein

Let's be clear, I am in no way shape or form advocating for the polo shirt as any type of formal or professional wear. The polo shirt, from it's roots, has been a casual shirt meant for sport... I can't for the life of me seem to remember what sport, though. Anyway, the most classic of pairings is a polo shirt with a pair of chinos. Polos and chinos go together like Young Jeezy and Shawty Red beats... or Simon and Garfunkel for the non-hip-hop crowd. When rocking a polo with chinos, I like for there to be something interesting about one of the pieces. Whether it be a fun color or an interesting detail, having something that spices up the ensemble can help one stand out in one of the most common outfits (at least in the U.S.). This striped raglan sleeved polo is from Hickey (R.I.P.) and it's an excellent Pima cotton body with a sturdy collar. The way the tangerine, blue, and white come together make the entire outfit pop more than if either item was paired with a more subtle color.

Polo-Benjamin Bixby | Trousers-Theory | Belt-Bobby Jones | Shoes-Calvin Klein | Sunglasses-Unknown

My philosophy when it comes to polo shirts is you get exactly what you pay for. Some polo shirts are very cheap for a reason, and often times you will discover this reason after about two or so washing. Some great polo shirts can be had for as little as $30 MSRP and some fairly average polos can be had for well over $70 MSRP. Generally speaking you can't go wrong with the logo kings, Polo and Lacoste. There are some brands making some of the most sought after polo today such as Boast USA, Band of Outsiders, and Kitsuné. Some of the best deals, however, are from defunct lines. Another brand that was before it's time is Benjamin Bixby, the brainchild of the greatest Southern rapper alive. Mesh, or pique, polo shirts are kind of the gold standard of polo shirts. These mesh Bixby polo shirts retailed for around $100, but can be found on eBay for around $15 or $20 now. They are excellent. A great slim fit, very soft, and nice details. Bigger guys might consider sizing up one as this is a medium that I'm wearing.

A nice trim fit is key with polos. They don't need to hug your body like a base layer, but they should fit comfortably close. The sleeves should totally cover your deltoid and stop somewhere before the mid point of your bicep. Longer polos ~~should~~ must be tucked in. There really is no wiggle room on this one. If you need to ask someone if a polo looks a little long, just tuck it in. If you tuck your polo into a pair of trousers or more refined bottoms you won't look quite at "dad-like" as tucking them into say a pair of jeans. Looks like this are good for casual business meetings, casual Friday in the office, or the golf course. Just toss some golf cleats in your car and you are good for a round of 9 after work.

Polo-Polo Ralph Lauren | Sweater-J. Crew | Jeans-Gap | Belt-Land's End Canvas | Shoes-Sperry

A polo shirt with a v-neck sweater is a nice option for those cooler yet still casual days. I prefer a polo with a slightly longer, sturdier collar that will stay up with relative ease throughout the day. For the guy looking to find something more grown-up to wear to grab drinks with friends but is still scared of a tie, this can be a good look if executed well. This polo shirt is from none other than Mr. Polo himself, Ralph Lauren. It's is a Blue Label custom-fit polo and it has served me well over the years. It has kept it's color through numerous washing, and I have made it a point not to just stand out in the sun in a black polo...

When I'm not blogging about clothes, I post up on mailboxes and when old people go to put letters in, I smack their hands and yell, "Grandchildren would rather get text messages!!!!"

Dapper Tracks: The S/S 2011 Collection Mixtape (Tagged version)

2011-04-13T11:06:00.001-04:00

FINALLY! It is complete... sorta. Some of you have been waiting on this for a while, others probably don't know what the hell a "Dapper Tracks" is. For those of you unfamiliar, Dapper Tracks is my podcast, of sorts, where I play music that I'm enjoying at the moment, past and present, as well as discuss topics of interest. This addition to the Dapper Tracks collection is a mixtape of (relatively) new music that I'm bumping minus the commentary... with a few little treats in there to spice things up. You can stream this if you are at work as well as download the mix. Stay tuned for an untagged version with separated tracks. Thanks for the patience and enjoy!

Dapper Tracks S S 2011 Mixtape (Tagged) by C Benjamin

Turning the Corner

2011-04-11T14:51:00.000-04:00

According to the calendar, Spring has been upon us for a few weeks now but in most places we are just now getting a taste of warm weather. In my last post, I talked about mixing staples from Fall/Winter with Spring/Summer pieces to create seasonally appropriate outfits. Now that we have turned the seasonal corner, let's talk about the season's sartorial MVP: the unstructured cotton blazer.

A good unstructured jacket can be one of the most versatile pieces in your closet. With the right combination of fit, refinement, and comfort, an unstructured jacket can look as great with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with trousers and a dress shirt. Because they lack the canvassing and padding of structured jackets, they travel well and move with your body. Cotton blazers have some clear benefits to their woolen brothers, not the least of which being breathability. Another benefit is affordability: you can purchase great unstructured cotton jackets much cheaper than unstructured wool jackets. They are also fairly easy to find at a range of prices and quality.

While a Spring staple, a good cotton blazer can get you through three seasons. A lined blazer, such as this one, will perform better on chillier days than an unlined blazer will. Conversely, an unlined blazer will be more comfortable in the hottest summer day, with a partially lined blazer being that happy medium between the two. Think about what your location's seasonal patterns are to find the right jacket for you.

I really like a cotton blazer when traveling. Blazers are generally great for traveling because things like tickets, cell phones, keys, and other things that need to come out of your pockets before going through security. Airports and planes are rarely comfortable across the board temperature wise; one is chilly while the other is warm. A cotton blazer can keep you warm in the terminal; they won't suffocate you in the airplane cabin; and when you take it off you basically can ball it up and toss it under your seat.

Took these pics myself... this is the ~~crotch~~ test shot.

Transitioning Into Spring

2011-03-26T12:00:00.001-04:00

Spring is officially here. In Virginia, we had essentially a week of warm weather. The problem is that it while the high was around 70, the starting temp would be around 45 degrees. The last thing you want to do is go from wearing flannel and boots to madras and boat shoes overnight. By mixing some F/W pieces with S/S pieces, you can have a look that is seasonally appropriate both aesthetically and functionally.

It's important that one be aware of the weather when dressing. When seasons change, you should ease into the new season's clothes as opposed to diving head first. I can remember how many times in college as soon as the snow melted, someone was rocking shorts, flip-flops, and a Northface. It's not enough to just get the clothes to coordinate with each other: they should also coordinate with the weather. Since it was going to get near 70 for the day, I knew I would be fine to go sockless (also my boss was out of town, so I knew I wasn't going to catch flack for it). The day's starting temp was about 45, and I didn't want to wear a coat over a cotton blazer. Instead I grabbed a half lined herringbone wool sport coat and went on my way. I was more than comfortable all day as the jacket was warm enough in the morning and not too warm in the afternoon.

One style "rule" is that your leathers should match: brown shoes, brown belt, brown bag. As with most style rules, one should learn how to break it. The easiest way to break this rule is to keep everything close in tone. My shoes are burgundy, my belt is a dark brown, and my bag is black. If the shoes were cognac or chestnut, this would look off.

The shirt that I am wearing is from Modern Tailor. It is one of their $20 blue oxfords and I am thoroughly impressed. Because the shirt was so cheap I decided to make a few upgrades. I went with the contrast club collar and I was surprised to find that it was essentially a spread club collar. It creates a different look than many of the pinned club collars that you see on the interwebs. I also upgraded to the mother of pearl buttons. In total, the shirt came to less than $40 shipped. Rather than entering my measurements, I entered the measurements of a shirt that fit me well already and the fit was great. They have a ton of great looking fabrics at varying price ranges and really the only qualm about my Modern Tailor experience was the fact that the shipping website is in Chinese and once it leaves China I had no idea where it was until it arrived (about 2 weeks after ordering).

Warby Parker Review

2011-03-21T20:13:00.005-04:00

I have been wearing glasses since the 8th grade. I was lucky that my mom had health insurance with a killer vision plan, so I was able to get new frames every two years and not really have to worry about price. Once I graduated, got a job, and a vision plan of my own I realized that prescription glasses are expensive as hell without insurance. Unfortunately, my vision plan isn't quite on the level as my parent's at this point in my career. Enter Warby Parker: the maker of the most stylish and affordable glasses out there.

It is well known that Warby Parker offers free home try-ons. You have 5 days upon receipt to return the glasses and I did two to find the right pair. My first try on was during the Fall when I was traveling for work and it was going to arrive while I was away for a week and a half. I called Warby Parker and they were extremely accommodating. They rerouted the package back to them and told me to email them when I returned home and they would ship them again immediately. They did just that. I didn't find anything that I was happy with in my first try on so I waited for them to release their new collection to do my second try-on and I was very happy I did so. I wanted a pair of glasses with wider lenses, so more of my periphery was in the glasses, and dark blue frames. The Sinclair's offered just that.

Warby Parker will work with you in getting your prescription right. You can have them contact your eye doctor, you have have the eye doctor send Warby Parker the info, or you can enter it yourself. I decided to enter the info myself as I had already contacted my doctor about getting my prescription from them. The process of entering the prescription wasn't difficult at all. The glasses arrive in less than 2 weeks (about 8 or 9 days after I placed my order). They came with a nice case and a cloth. Three plus weeks and I'm still loving them. If you are in need of glasses and either don't have baller insurance or are on a budget, I highly recommend you look into Warby Parker.

Glasses-Warby Parker | Blazer and Jeans-Gap | Custom Shirt-Blank Label | Shoes-Bass Dovers | Bow Tie-Vineyard Vines

P.S. The bow tie that I'm wearing is Vineyard Vines for Washington and Lee and it features our university's logo. If you went to a school preppy enough to have it's own bow tie, I highly recommend getting one. They are excellent conversation pieces without being cartoonish.

In the Trenches

2011-03-13T17:11:00.000-04:00

One of the toughest things in a guy's wardrobe to transition from a college life style to an "I have or want a real job" life style is outerwear. Sure, that Northface made it through a lot but it looks a lot better layered over a hoody with some jeans than it looks over a shirt a tie. Even more stylish coats like anoraks can look a bit odd over a suit or blazer. Enter the trench coat. A good lightweight trench is essential to any working man. A trim fitting single breasted trench will look as good with your trousers and dress shirts as it will with jeans and a t-shirt.

Jacket and Tie-J. Crew | Shirt-Brooks Brothers | Trousers-Tommy Hilfiger (part of a suit) | Shoes-Bass Dovers | Shoe Covers-Tingley

No ifs, ands, or buts khaki trenches are money. They go with brown, black, navy, grey and they are so classic. This is the J. Crew Holborn trench and is a great option for the guy that is looking for something simple, classic, and well fitting. One of the things to remember about trench coats is, like a Chesterfield coat, you want to be able to slip it over a blazer or suit jacket. The Holborn trench is great because I can put it over a suit jacket or blazer without trouble as well as wear it with a t-shirt and not swim in it. The purpose of a coat like this is not to keep you toasty: it's to keep you dry and serve as a windbreaker. The Holborn does both of those things well as it is half lined and made of treated cotton. Many trenches are double breasted, but I feel that single breasted trenches are more versatile and look much better with casual fits than double breasted trenches (example below). Some guys aren't sure what do do with the belt on a trench. If the trench actually fits you, it won't look odd belted just don't pull the belt too tight. The belt is your friend so buckle it, tie it, stuff the ends in the pockets but don't toss it.

Hardbottoms and rain do not mix well so it's best to protect your investment. Dieworkwear wrote an excellent editorial on footwear options for wet weather, and one of the options that he discussed towards the end was rubber shoe covers. These are from Tingley and they are legit. They fit well over both my loafers and my longwings. These are the Commuters and considering I don't plan on jumping in puddles like a 4 year old, they get the job done. I have had to wear them multiple times over the last few days and I have been very happy with them. A good umbrella is also very handy. Dieworkwear also wrote an editorial on umbrellas (the kid is putting in WORK and if you don't follow him you're losing at life right now). Umbrella's aren't something to stress over because at the end of the day you just want something to keep the rain off you. My recommendation is to stick to something simple. Curve handled umbrellas aren't for everyone and hardcore golf umbrellas can look odd off the links, but a good straight handled umbrella looks good in every scenario. I got this one from the University store for something like $50 and it hasn't failed me yet. It's not the most compact of umbrellas, but it keeps me dry and looks nice on my way to work.

Shirt-Gap | Jeans-UO Unbranded | Belt-Martin+Osa | Shoes-Sperry

Casually, single breasted trenches are awesome. Saturday meet up on an overcast day? It's got you covered. Sunday brunch with wifey? It's got you covered. Much like a double breasted blazer, double breasted coats look much better buttoned than unbuttoned. So when it comes to casual fits or warmer days when you just want to toss a jacket on and not have to get all buttoned up, a single breasted trench is money.

Dapper Demeanor Presents: Michael O'Brien

2011-03-07T09:00:00.001-05:00

Dapper Demeanor Presents... is a web series that focuses on conversations about style and creativity. The discussion is much broader than clothes, though they do play a part, and speaks to general aesthetics and lifestyle as well as the featured person's approach to what it is that they do. Michael O'Brien is a photographer and friend of mine whose style embodies the simplicity of men's style and how beautiful that simplicity can be (he also takes some damn good pictures). The interview is above and below are some shots that I took of him in his space as well as some of his work.

courtesy of Michael O'Brien

Double Up

2011-02-24T23:35:00.000-05:00

The double breasted blazer is one of those pieces that is quintessentially masculine. They are also one of those pieces that are extremely hard to find at a reasonable price, especially a slim version. I lucked out and got this J. Crew blazer for a STEAL and have been waiting for the weather to warm up so I can break it out in it's full glory.

Because this is such a strong piece, a guy in my position (read: entry level job) isn't going to rock it on a daily basis. I have it for nicer, more formal events for work when we need to put our best foot forward as well as nice after five functions. I decided to show the blazer off to the max so I went with a cutaway collar shirt with French cuffs as well as trousers with a 2 inch cuff. Many guys prefer a half or full Windsor knot with a collar like this, and some would say it's a must, but I decided to just go with the double four-in-hand and leave the big knots to the professionals and sportscasters.

While a great piece for more formal or professional settings, there are some casual applications for the double breasted blazer as well. I recently wore the blazer and shirt to a law school event that I was invited to. Cocktail attire was requested so I went with the blazer, shirt, no tie, silk pocket square, charcoal trousers with no cuff, and the same double monk strap shoes. I had a blast, was comfortable, and got a few compliments to boot.

These pants are a part of a suit. I opted for 2 inch cuffs with a slight break. I figured that for a suit that I plan on wearing to things like job interviews, it would be a bad idea to go too fashion forward. A 2 inch with absolutely no break can be very aggressive to some people, and in situations like a job interview aggressive is the last thing you want to be. It works out just fine for me because of my height. The break is minimal so it all reads well. My tailor was suspicious when I asked for 2 inch cuffs as she had never see it done before, but once it was all said and done she was a believer. She even mentioned them to two friends that I recommended to her.

The shoes are the Maldini double monk strap shoes that were $80 on Yoox. Now, they aren't amazing quality but they are on par with say an Aldo. The shoe gets the job done without breaking the bank but you do get what you pay for. The sole is leather with a rubber inset in the toe for traction. Goodyear welted? HA! No, but you can do worse for much more. I don't wear black shoes often and I just wanted something stylish to throw in the rotation and extend the life of some of my better shoes. These shoes are like an ideal backup quarterback: won't get much playing time, but when they do they'll perform well enough to get the W.

Dockers San Francisco Tapered Fit Chinos

2011-02-17T09:30:00.002-05:00

It has been well documented on Twitter my interest in Dockers' new slim fitting chinos. Unfortunately in every store I have ever been in as well as online, the slimmest cut that is available in a 32x34 is the D2 straight fit... which is not particularly slim. These new slim fits have been featured in GQ, Esquire, and countless blogs but because they didn't come in my inseam I could not have an informed opinion. Considering most of the chinos are between $35 and $70, I really wanted to give them a test run. After months of waiting for my size to show up online, I finally got my shot.

Shaun over at Dockers heard my cries and decided to ~~shut me up~~ let me see first hand just how great Dockers new fits are. He sent two pairs: the D1 Slim Tapered in grey and the D1 SF Tapered Fit in a mustard khaki. Let me say, these are legit. They came unironed for that lived in look that all the cool kids that roll their pants and don't wash their jeans like. These are perfect for the guy looking for a chino that can go from the office to the bar in 0-60. The Slim Tapered is in deed the slimmer of the two, with a lower rise and smaller leg opening (6.75 inches across) that is akin to the Levi's 511 with a tad more room and no elastane. I think, however, the SF Tapered fit is going to be Docker's crown jewel of this new class of slim chinos. Slim with a slightly higher rise (10 inches instead of 9) and slightly wider leg opening (7.5 inches across), the SF Tapered (SF stands for San Francisco by the way) is the chino that you have probably seen the most in different publications. They come in a crazy range of colors (I really like the Refuge green and Scotch blue) and Shaun tells me that they should be available in more sizes both online and in Dockers' stores sometime around March.

Pants-Dockers | Sweatshirt and Tie-J. Crew | Shirt and Cap-Gap | Belt-Martin + Osa | Shoes-Sperry

I decided to style them pretty classically in a fit that can easily be for work or just hanging out. Those these aren't the most refined chinos, they can be dressed up as well as down. Swap the boat shoes and rope belt for some brogues and a slim leather belt and you are good for the office. I could have gone even more casual with a polo shirt or a simple t-shirt and these chinos would look awesome. They feel like they are built to last, and given the awesome shoot The Selby did I believe that these chinos could hold their own from the boardroom to the worksite.

Always look both ways before you try to take pictures in the middle of the damn street...

Check out other reviews on Dockers pants by some of my blogging cohorts at http://aheadlongdive.com/2011/02/21/sartorial-et-al/

Dapper Tracks vol. 3

2011-02-16T23:26:00.000-05:00

We're back for the third installment of Dapper Tracks. Some of you may have missed vol. 2, it was a live show and my feeble attempts to record it didn't pan out. I might release some of the salvageable clips from vol. 2 at a later date, but for now enjoy vol. 3. In addition to music, I talk a bit about fashion v. style (why hasn't anyone talked about this topic yet?) as well as Odd Future. WARNING: There is an Odd Future track on this episode... so you might want to turn it down if you are listening at work.

Dapper Tracks vol. 3 download | LimeLinx

Tracklisting:
My God-Pusha T
P&P 1.5-Kendrick Lamar ft. Ab-Soul
Even Deeper-Rick Ross ft. Barry White
Just Bounce-HollyWeerd
CB Checks In (Unforgettable-Drake ft. Young Jeezy; Poppin' Tags-Jay-Z ft. Sleepy Brown, Big Boi, Killer Mike, and Twista; Best Friend-J. Cole; Supa Dupa-Big Sean)
AssMilk-Tyler the Creator ft. Earl (Odd Future track!)
Lookin' 4 Ya-OutKast ft. Sleepy Brown
Call From The Bank-Nipsey Hussle
Perfect Defect-N.E.R.D.
In The Closet-Michael Jackson
Femme Fatale-Aloe Blacc

Valentines Vintage

2011-02-02T17:10:00.000-05:00

When holidays roll around, people like to dress for them. Green on St. Patrick's Day; red, white, and blue on the 4th, you name a holiday and people will O.D. on colors associated with the occasion. For some, Valentines Day means all red everything and you know some guy in your office is going to wear one of those red shirts that came in a clear plastic box with a crappy tie (or worse go with the "Target floor manager look" red polo + khakis). Rather than making a statement with your shirt, try it with your pants and keep the rest more understated.

The pants here are Rugby and they are more of a washed pink/fuchsia than your standard Nantucket red. Absolutely no break in these, they are great. The weight is perfect for year round wear, and the cotton is just thick enough to hold a decent crease. For some, colors like this can be considered "for warm weather only" but I find rules like this as unfounded as the "no white after Labor Day" rule. If you keep the rest of your outfit seasonally appropriate, both in tones and fabrics, you can definitely incorporate brighter colors during colder months.

The blazer is vintage Polo University Club. I saw this in my dad's closet about 4 years ago and asked him if I could have it. His response: "Why would you want that?" It's faux suede (an actual suede blazer would be ridiculously hot) and I had it tailored (sleeves narrowed, taken in, and shortened). It's great for this transitional period when the weather is changing from Winter to Spring (at least for those of us in the South... it was 62 today!). The shoulders are a tad more structured than I would prefer for straight up casual wear, but great for the office.

FYI: the back drop is not my alma mater. This is Virginia Military Institute, the West Point of the South (and if the South had won the Civil War it would, indeed, be this country's West Point... and I would be a slave and blog-less).

Polo this, Polo that...

How You Gonna Act Like I Ain't No 'Lo Head?

2011-01-25T09:38:00.000-05:00

Early in my days of blogging, a friend of mine asked me if I could only wear one designer for the rest of my life who would it be. I said, if I could wear all the brands of Ralph Lauren I would be straight. The man just makes dope clothes. None of his labels are whack. Even Polo Golf makes some things that make me say,"Hmm, I think it might be time to hit up the driving range." From fit to construction, the whole RL team knows what they are doing.

Shirt and Pants-Rugby | Jacket-GAP | Tie-J. Crew | Boots-Polo | Sunglasses-mall vendor

Though not everything in this fit is RL, the look is RL Rugby inspired: classic elements with modern styling. The shirt, pants, and boots are RL, with the shirt and cords from the Rugby line and the boots Polo. I have had these cords for some time now and I love them. They are the perfect weight for F/W and the color is sick. They are on sale and considering it's going to be chilly in most parts for at least another month or so, they are a sound investment. There has been some discussion on the internet about tucking pants into boots, even a discussion on GiltMANUAL about the matter. Here is my stance on the issue: I have no hard line stance either way. Here, I felt compelled to cuff my pants once and just let the rest on top of the boots; technically they aren't tucked in.

For the last few years writers, stylists, bloggers have been talking about the merits of denim jackets. Usually the discussion centers around worn in jackets with fades and subtle tears, in part because these go well with raw denim. A dark denim jacket, however, can be a great piece too. I think it pairs best when wearing rich colors. When I wear business or business casual pieces with a denim jacket, a dark denim jacket gives the entire outfit a less casual feel than a worn-in jacket.

Old Man Pants, Young Man Style

2011-01-20T12:11:00.002-05:00

I'm from the Midwest. While many of you may still be knee deep in football coverage, NFL playoffs and draft predictions, it's basketball season in my mind. I spent pretty much all of my formative years on the court. I played 2 and a half years of varsity and AAU in high school and though I didn't play in college, I went to (and still go to) every game. Enough of my trip down memory lane, this blog is about clothes. If you have read GQ for any length period of time, you will know that they tell you to stay away from pleated pants like the plague. While they are right, for the most part, the issue with pleated pants isn't so much the fact that they are pleated; it's that 99% of the pleated pants on the market are crap. They are ill fitting, and the traditional double pleat make them the male equivalent of "mom jeans". Enter the slim, single pleated pant. They are the sartorial A.I. crossover: GQ said no, I said yes.

Pants, Tie, Belt, and NATO Strap-J.Crew | Jacket and Socks-Gap | Shirt-Land's End Canvas | Shoes-Converse Jack Purcell | Cap-Custom

There are three components to successfully pulling off pleated pants. They should be slim, single pleated, and wore around your natural waist. Slim pleated pants are hard to come by and finding them at a reasonable price is even harder. J. Crew introduced a slim chino in their classic fit this past F/W and they're on sale right now for $49.50. No question its the best pleated pant sub $100 out right now, and as far as I know its the only one in it's category. It's slim, single pleated, and the fabric quality is excellent for year round wear. The fact that you can choose your own inseam up to 36 and even get them cuffed (only up to 33) makes them even more attractive. They are going fast, so get on it if you want a pair. If you worry about them not being slim enough, they can be easily tapered along the inseam.

It was 50 degrees in VA with decent humidity, so rather than sweat in a wool peacoat I just threw on a denim jacket and called it a day. There are some out there that say baseball caps of any sort are a sartorial no-no. I have a few things to say about that. First off, I think this media backlash against baseball caps is based, in part, to my long haired Caucasoid brethren's propensity to getting hat-hair. Those of us with short hair, however, don't have that problem. There are some cases of wearing ball caps that I will say should totally go by the wayside. The "shirt matches the shoes matches the fitted" look is for the birds; the "I just OD'ed on a bunch of retro Starter gear" look can go; and basically any cap that looks like what coaches wear on the sidelines are garbage. What is dope is having a signature cap, or a couple of signature caps, that you wear from time to time in casual settings. Find a cap that fits your head well. I am partial to fitted caps. Non-fitted caps are the clip-on tie of ball caps in my opinion.

I had this cap custom made because all of the caps sold in the university store suck. It's fitted and the numbers on the front are the year my alma mater was founded, on the back I have 5 stars (because the school mascot is the Generals... get it). I would only wear this in very casual situations. This hat won't make any appearance on a nice but casual night out with the lady, but if I'm sitting courtside at a game please believe I'm rockin' it hard as I verbally abuse referees.

Old Dog, New Tricks

2011-01-14T15:11:00.001-05:00

Happy New Year to everyone! Welcome to 2011 and welcome back to Dapper Demeanor. I took a hiatus to spend time with (real life) loved ones and now I'm back for ~~the people that entertain my online bante~~r my electronic loved ones. As I have alluded to on both Tumblr and Twitter, this post feature my thoughts on the Florsheim Veblan. This post also highlights my first experience thrifting a blazer.

After an unsuccessful search for a good F/W blazer in major retail stores, I decided to hit up the local thrift store and see what I could find. Immediately, I was draw to this beautiful grey flannel blazer. Every thing about it looked perfect, and it almost was: patch pockets, slim fit, half lined. The only issue: sleeve length. The sleeves were WAY too short. I thought about whether or not to buy it while I waded through the other blazers that, for the most part, were crap. I decided that at $7, I couldn't lose. Worst case senario: the sleeves can't be fixed and I just made a $7 donation. Luckily, the alteration turned out quite nicely. The weight is excellent and on days that aren't too cold I can forgot a coat and just wear the blazer. I also had the jeans tapered. They are selvedge Levi's 501's from J. Crew that I snagged for $20. I know what you are thinking "Altering selvedge?! Time to stop following this clown!" There really is nothing wrong with tapering selvedge jeans. Sure you end up with a wider selvedge line but so what!.

These, my friends, are my Florsheim Veblans and I am very happy with them. Someone said they look like knock off Aldens and to a certain extent they are, but at about a 4th of the price you really can't complain. The leather is crazy supple, and the sole is hefty. The big difference between the Veblan and the Kenmoor (other than about a hundred off the price tag) is the Veblan's removable insole. Some people have mentioned sizing down a half size, I went true to size and they are fitting just fine. The Veblans aren't as dressy as Aldens, but they are still a damn good dress shoe. They are a great starter longwing.

Winter Whites

2010-12-17T02:13:00.001-05:00

No white after Labor Day is the DUMBEST "fashion" rule there is. White is a color that can be worn year round. One of the best combinations out there is white pants and dark shoes. With winter ~~right around the corner~~ having it's way with Southwest Virginia, I had to break out the peacoat and Palladiums.

Coat-Merona|Turtle neck-United Colors of Benneton|Jeans-Levi's 501 (tailored)|Gloves-Calvin Klein|Boots-Palladium

Had to break out the O.J. gloves. Not long after this shoot, mother nature took a giant snow white dump on Lex. As I have said many times, Palladium Baggy's are my favorite shoes. They are crazy comfortable, extremely durable, and for the price you aren't going to find the same level of quality, comfort, and style anywhere else. It's good to wear them with some thick wool boot socks in the winter time. They got me through the winter storm that hit D.C. last year, and they helped me make it to work through 3 inches of un-shoveled snow today.

Introducing Dapper Tracks Vol. 1: Music To Get Fresh To

2010-12-01T23:48:00.000-05:00

Dapper Tracks vol. 1 by dappertracks

Dapper Tracks is my new podcast where I talk about any and everything as well as bump my favorite tracks of the moment. If you have a topic that you would like to hear me ~~rant~~ talk about, feel free to hit me up on Tumblr or Twitter in a DM. You can catch all of my Dapper Tracks here, on Tumblr, or go direct to the source at http://soundcloud.com/dappertracks/. The down arrow icon on the right side of the player allows you to download each episode. Enjoy!

Tracklist
Dark Fantasy-Kanye West
Michael Knight Remix-Curren$y ft. Raekwon
1997-Dom Kennedy
Before I'm Gone-J. Cole
I'm Still In Love With You-Al Green
CB Checks in (Woman's Gotta Have It-Bobby Womack)
Shiny Suit Theory-Jay Electronica ft. Jay-Z
wildflower-Cee-Lon Green
When The Night Falls-Chromeo
Throwin' My Money-TiRon

Professor Steeze

2010-11-30T23:08:00.000-05:00

I think one of the most debated of menswear items over the past 2 years is the turtleneck. One can make an argument for pleated pants, but due to the level of difficulty and general lack of affordable slim, single pleated trousers my money is on the turtleneck. You can find a well fitting turtleneck in a lot of places, but so many guys shy away from them, in the U.S. anyway. For guys that prefer an understated look but at the same time don't want to get lost in the riff-raff, a slim fitting turtleneck is the way to go.

Blazer and Socks-Gap|Turtleneck-United Colors of Benniton|Jeans-Unbranded Denim|Shoes-Sperry

Not only can they be versatile and stylish, they are also functional in cold weather months. Nothing is worse than rocking a scarf and a cold gust comes through and finds that ONE gap in the scarf and chops you in the Adam's apple Liam Neeson in Taken style. Turtlenecks are tricky, though, because there are many variations. If you are new to the turtleneck game, going with cotton or a fine merino wool are your two best bets: classic, lots of places carry them, and they are easily layered under coats, blazers, and even overshirts. Chunkier turtlenecks are a little tougher for novices, but can be great too. Tweed blazers with turtlenecks is a collegiate classic, which I love in part because I live in a college town and work for a college.

"No socks with boat shoes" is one of those rules that you have to learn how to break. You can rock socks, but they must be the right kind of socks and the weather has to be appropriate (anything sub 55 is too damn cold for boat shoes even with socks). A nice, thick (but not too thick) camper/boot sock works well with boat shoes.

Buffalo Soldier

2010-11-29T10:36:00.001-05:00

In most parts of the U.S., the temp has dropped and its time to break out the jackets. One of the unsung heroes of American work wear style is the shirt jacket. Dan T., The Style Blogger, recently did a post on the overshirt, but when the temp dips a shirt jacket is a great way to take things up a notch in the warmth department.

Shirt jackets have been around for a while. My grandfather is an electrician, and I have worked with him since I was about 7. I remember on chilly fall days when he wasn't wearing a Carhartt canvas jacket, he had on a flannel shirt jacket. With the recent popularity of classic American work wear, more brands are offering slimmer versions of the working man's staple. Unless you have your union card, there is no reason why you should be wearing a shirt jacket with work boots, a work shirt, and work gloves. Shirt jackets can work with more refined elements in your wardrobe: from brogues to bow ties (as done here). Shirt jackets come in a range of colors, patterns, and weights. I went with a classic red buffalo plaid with a Sherpa lining.

I went with my desert boots, but this fit could have worked just as well with sneakers, brogues, or of course work boots.

Time To Put Away The Leather... Soles

2010-10-20T09:00:00.002-04:00

We talk about leather sole shoes, or hard-bottoms, as a sign of quality. But what about their soft soled brothers? Nine out of ten times, rubber soles on dress shoes just look cheap. A nice lug soled dress shoe in the F/W, however, can be a great shoe for a number of reasons. More on why after the jump.

Shirt and Cap-H&M|Waistcoat and Socks-Target|Jeans-UO Unbranded Denim|Shoes-Land's End|Bag-Calvin Klein

A good lug soled dress shoe is a good shoe to have in your repertoire. While it shouldn't replace a leather soled shoe all together, there are a few times when a rubber sole is more appropriate than a leather sole. One such situation is when the weather turns ill. Leather and puddles, ice, or salt really don't mix well. A lug sole will look sharp as well as keep your feet dry and give you additional traction.

Another good time for lug sole dress shoes is for going out. I know many of you may not dance, but if you are going clubbing or even bar hopping and know you will be spending a lot of time on your feet (whether walking all over the city to different bars or dancing the night away) rubber soles come in handy. Leather soles are very delicate in comparison, and to have a shoe that looks classy but can also make it through the night is a good look. I prefer the look of the golf shoe-like sole like these from Land's End. I got them on sale for under $100. J. Crew has a version for about a $170, and Allen Edmonds' Quiton comes in at a little over three bills. I went for the low end because I figured that in my youthful ignorance, I would end up messing these up.

Some might say "Just get some rubber shoe covers and call it a day." But if you are like me you are prone to leaving them somewhere, because unlike sex your first inclination is not to look for condoms before you head out the door for work. So cop some rubber soles and go raw dog all F/W (in your shoes that is).

To Catch A Moc Toe Boot

2010-10-14T09:00:00.002-04:00

Autumn means the temperature is cooling off, leaves are falling, and it's time to put the boat shoes away and break out the boots. There are lots of different types of boots, but I like mine high and with moc toes. Why? Hit the jump and find out.

Hat-American Apparel|Sweatshirt-J. Crew|Jeans-RRL|Boots-Vael Projects

Any of you that have followed me on Tumblr know that I am a big boot guy. I love boots of all shapes and sizes, but my favorite at the moment is definitely a tall moc toe boot with a rugged sole. By high, think 7+ inches. While I do enjoy a good captoe boot, there is just something real grizzly about the moc toe and the height is good for tucking your jeans into.

While Vael makes some boots that are on some Visvim/Hypebeast type -ish, these Deckard boots are pretty classic. I really like the Red Wing Irish Setter, but I can't justify buying boots that cost almost as much as my car payment. The Deckards were retailing at a comparable price, but I was able to get them for around $80 or $90. They have an authentic Vibram sole, leather laces, and uppers that are so buttery you need cholesterol medicine just to wear them.

A warning to guys under 5'9": tall boots might not work for you. If the boots come up too high, they will only make you appear short (in the same way that baggy clothes make skinny guys look skinnier). I would opt for a 6" or mid height boot instead of something quite as tall as these.

Just Touched Down

2010-10-06T22:29:00.001-04:00

To say that college football season is in full swing would be a gross understatement. With BCS rankings come out soon and most teams 5 games in, the regular season is almost halfway done... But I am a glass half full kinda guy, so lets just say that we have 2 more months of awesomeness and leave it at that. This fit was inspired by the idea that most guys that have transitioned to "grown up" wardrobes from college probably don't have much of your typical fall Saturday garb (unless you went to a school like mine where blazers and ties were standard issue in the stands). This is something that is put together, casual, and most importantly comfortable. It would look good at the alumni function, the tailgate, and the game. More after the jump.

Nothing that I'm rocking is slim/skinny, but it all fits. The shirt is from Nautica (I told you this shirt would pop up on here soon) and I sized down to a small. The fit is pretty good. For this particular shirt, the fit is almost identical to my Land's End Canvas medium OCBD.

While in Pittsburgh for work, I found a 2.75 in. black knit tie in Land's End that would make L.A.S. proud. Ties a good knot, it's width definitely makes a statement in a sea of slim ties, and at $40 its about half the price of those at J. Press. The vest came upon a recommendation from Dan T. aka The Style Blogger. When a man that wears custom suits and Montblanc watches tells you that $20 down vests from Land's End are legit, you heed his words. They run big, so I would size down if you prefer a slim fit. It's a great weight: very light but insulates well. For crisp fall days, vests like these are money (and they won't mess up your throwing motion if you are tossing the ~~fatback~~ ~~hog maw~~ ~~pork grind~~ pig skin).

While many of you have made excellent finds in thrift stores and eBay, my moment or sartorial grace came in a TJ Maxx in South Bend, IN. I was home for Christmas my senior year in college when I stumbled upon a gang of selvedge RRL jeans in TJ Maxx. How they got there, I don't know but God bless the ~~person that stole~~ buyer that found them. These were marked down from $250 to $80, and because no one in South Bend knows anything about fashion... marked down again to $40. It was a no brainer for me. If I hadn't been broke, I would have scooped a pair of the raw joints too. I had them tapered a few months after I got them, and I don't mind the now SUPER spread out selvedge lines. Luckily the alterationist had the sense not to cut off the extra fabric because at the time I didn't know to tell them not to cut it. That hat is one of my favorite articles of clothing. I really like hats, but it's rare that I find one that fits me (in terms of size and personality) so well. I wear it with almost any outfit in the F/W.

Me getting my Peyton Manning on... clearly posing.

All credits to my photographer, Vanessa Ndege. She did a killer job on this shoot and the last one. She snapped this and I didn't even know she was taking my pic!

Po' Pimpin': Eastland Boot Edition

2010-10-04T22:46:00.000-04:00

Are you looking for some awesome rugged boots for this F/W? Do you like the prices of L.L. Bean's gear? Are you broke like the Tumblr queue feature? If you answered yes to any or all of these questions, then this post is for you. L.L. Bean isn't the only company that's making hot s**t out of Maine. Eastland is an O.G. in the game, producing classic American footwear since 1955. I went to a private school with a uniform, and us scholarship kids that couldn't afford Dr. Martin's were rocking Eastlands and I can say first hand that they are tough (played football and basketball in them EVERY DAMN DAY and they made it through the school year without falling apart). All of the shoes in this post are $90... NINETY BUCKS, YO! More styles after the jump.

The Hemlocks, above, are just the tip of this recession sensitive iceberg. The Lumber Ups below are an ill and at $90, they edge out the L.L. Bean Lodge Boot in price by about 10 bucks (which you can throw towards expedited shipping on the Eastland joints).

The Seneca's, below, are not cheaper than Bean Mocs... but they are a nice boot nonetheless. And if you have a virulent, xenophobic hatred of L.L. Bean they are a good plan B.

Here Comes A New Challenger!

2010-10-04T15:52:00.001-04:00

all photo credits: Nautica

Do you remember playing Street Fighter II and getting this message when one of your boys would hit start on the other controller to play you? Well in the street fight that is the world of affordable but stylish menswear, Nautica may have hit the start button on brands like Land's End and L.L. Bean. Though they are not newcomers to the world of men's style, they haven't really been in the discussion like Gap, J. Crew, or the aforementioned brands. Rather than following the hunter-gatherer trend that most brands are trending towards, they are staying true to their aquatic roots and offering pieces that would look ill in the city or at the docks. More after the jump.

As I mentioned, Nautica is not new to the game. They have been around since 1983, when David Chu started the brand. They enjoyed minor success in the 90's, as one of the preferred brands of rappers a la Tommy Hilfiger. Since then, they have been all but forgotten in the larger discourse on men's fashion. I had written them off for a while, until recently. I had seen a few ads that made me reconsider the brand, so while in Pittsburgh for work I dropped by the Nautica section of Macy's and was pleasantly surprised by what I found:

This sweater is hefty and has ill elbow patches. It's a heavy cotton/cashmere blend and can definitely keep you warm on those chilly fall days.

I ended up copping this shirt. Post featuring it coming soon!

Unfortunately, this duffel coat wasn't in the store. But with all the talk of duffels on the Tumblrs, I figured I would throw this one up. At $298, it's definitely a viable option considering the Gap joint that got a lot of us geeked up won't be coming state side anytime soon.

I tried this on and was REALLY torn. It's a great 3/2 roll, has leather elbow patches as well as leather under the collar. But here's the rub: the pattern matching is off on the patch pockets and pocket flaps. If there were no checks, I would have copped it no question. The weight is excellent for this time of year.

I will say that sizing is the Achilles heel for the brand: everything is sized kinda funky. For most guys, you should size down. They do have a few slim fit options, but they are very few. It appears they have a "tailored" line that looks very similar to Land's End's tailored line: trimmer but not not particularly slim. I would say the fit is akin to something like the Land's End main line items, though the sleeve lengths seem to be a bit longer on Nautica. I would definitely encourage you to try stuff on before copping so you get your sizing right. Their online return policy isn't terrible but it's not on L.L. Bean or Land's End's level (90 for refunds, you handle return shipping or you can return to a Nautica outlet). That said, next time you are in a Macy's or near an actual Nautica store, I would definitely encourage you to swing through. The quality is quite good, and the prices are definitely reasonable especially with the sales that Macy's and Nautica run (Nautica had 20% off all outerwear that ended this weekend and Macy's had 30% off certain styles including the blazer above). On a scale of "don't bother" to "fuck the rent, cop this shit", I give Nautica a "definitely check it out, but don't expect your world to be altered".

A Day In My Life

2010-10-04T13:06:00.000-04:00

As some of you may know, I work in college admissions. My office decided that they wanted to do a "Day in the Life" feature on the website to give prospective students and families a taste of what we do. While I had heard that we might be doing something like this, I was not informed that I would be featured in it (much less be the first to be featured). As I approached the office, I noticed that the university photographer and my coworker Jenny were in front of me snapping photos. This is what I wear on a normal summer day to work. Another shot of me (and my messy ass office) after the jump.

Click for larger view.

For more pics and to read the copy that was written for this, hit up the W&L Admissions Facebook Page.

Drop Zone

2010-09-25T10:00:00.002-04:00

photo credit: Scott Schuman

Many of you that follow the homie L.A.S. on Tumblr my recall this pic of Michael Bastian. Ignore the fit and swag that's on a hundred thousand trillion for a sec and focus on the bag: a military inspired duffel. While MB's gear is expensive (and fresh) as hell, many of the accessories he uses aren't. This bag, and many other variants, can be found at your local army surplus for cheap. I decided to take a trip to the nearest army surpluses with the expressed purpose of finding what I described to others simply as "a big ass duffel bag". Pics of what I found after the jump.

My "big ass duffel bag"

This, ladies and gents, is a parachute bag. They are all over the place and could be your new favorite travel bag. I have found that they are the perfect intermediate between a weekender and a large suitcase, and in this day and age when airlines will charge you an extra $70+ for checking abag over 50 lbs, having one made entirely of canvas will save some weight. Parachute bags come in a variety of dimensions, generally rectangular with two handles, and a heavy duty zipper. Mine has this dope flap that snaps over the zipper to protect it.

I have a mean house shoe game. What you know 'bout them Wal Mart memory foam slippers.

I had to pack for my first trip for work this year and I decided that I was going to put this bag to use. A weeks worth of work and casual clothes are in there. I figure if these could make it through Falluja, they should be able to handle TSA... right?

F/W + Corduroy Sportcoats = Your Swag * A Hundred Thousand Trillion

2010-09-23T13:37:00.000-04:00

I feel that more now than ever, guys are looking for blazers and sportcoats that they can wear after work as well as during work. Right now, many of us stateside are in a period where its not linen weather but it's not quite time to bust out the Harris Tweed. There are some dope middle ground fabrics and corduroy is one of them. I copped this Ludlow joint from J. Crew on sale ($80ish down from $130) and it's perfect. More pics after the jump.

In typical J. Crew style, I pushed the sleeves up. To maximize versatility, you want a jacket that has little to know construction: things like canvasing and padding is going to make it more formal. This jacket is also partially lined, which is great because I can wear it now and in the spring without sweating bullets.

I enlisted the talents of my girl Vanessa to take these (look,Ma! No mirror and cell phone!). She is a studio art major and a dope photographer with a good eye. I really can't take any credit for the good things in these shots other than the clothes because I looked like a doofus in 90% of them.

Don't quite know what I was doing with my hand here... but I liked the shot because it gives a good feel of the town that I live in. Not all bloggers live in NYC, Chicago, and L.A.

Jake Davis is a Genius

2010-09-21T15:24:00.000-04:00

*Please watch this video in it's entirety before reading*

Jake Davis Test Shots: James Wilson from Jake Davis on Vimeo.

While the title of this post is taken from these hilarious videos, there is no debating that Jake Davis is at least on to something with his Test Shots. I particularly like the more recent ones, like the one above with James from Secret Forts or the one he did with J. Kissi of Street Etiquette. In those not only did we get ~~GPOY style videos~~ dope fit vids, but we got some insight into what inspires or drives these stylish individuals. It's always refreshing to me when I can get insight into another's creative process, whether it's how they make art or how they put outfits together. I think the most poignant thing is this video is James talking about how all the things that influenced him from a young age come together to create his style. Sure, you may find others dressed like him, but I would be interested to know what ingredients came together to get them to that point. Maybe it was just the internets... who knows. From time to time here on DD, I will delve into some of the things that influence how I dress/what interests me stylistically.

I Put My Thang Down, Flip It, and Reverse It

2010-09-21T13:36:00.001-04:00

I remember when I was a kid they had reversible Starter jackets and stuff like that and they were killer. I had this pair of reversible Adidas basketball shorts and they were my favorite shorts to hoop in... until my girl Jaz borrowed them and pulled the drawstring out (moral of that story: never let girls borrow clothing that you will ever want returned in the same condition). Then after a while everything reversible was considered whack (you knew the whack AAU teams because they had reversible jerseys with iron-on numbers instead of home and aways). Looks like 2010 was the year that reversible gear pulled a Lazarus. Earlier in the year, Gant had a reversible jacket earlier in the year that was pretty dope, Tommy copied it, and countless others made reversible sweaters, hoodies, vests, etc. Rugby is throwing their proverbial hat in the ring of reversible threads, and their Reversible Cotton-Wool Trench is one of those pieces that can be a staple piece, especially if you are po' pimpin' like me. A bit more after the jump.

As with most things style related, I think that there are lots of styles and trends that, if executed properly, are viable and can have a permanent (or semi-permanent) place in a man's closet. While I don't think a man should stay with reversible clothes, a piece or two can be kinda dope. Such as this one:

As I alluded, reversible pieces can be good for those of us that aren't ballin' out of control as you can get two for the price of one. At under $400, you really can't find two coats with this kind of quality and style that will get you from September to early/mid December and then from like February to mid April in most places like this one can. While I hope everyone people don't take this whole reversibility thing too far, I think this entrant is a step in the right direction.

Quick Hit: Essentials

2010-09-16T17:49:00.003-04:00

Ask any style blogger out there (or at least the good ones) and they will list in their essentials: navy blazer, OCBD, wool trousers, brown dress shoes. If you see someone in real life wearing this, however, chances are they look pretty lame. To get the look right, it has to fit right. Once you get fit down, you start playing with the details to put your style into it. Here we have my take on a classic look.

I went with the university stripe oxford, rather than a plain white or blue oxford and let the collar go free. I wanted my tie to be bright and interesting, so I went with this knit joint and rather than a plain pocket square (or no square) I decided to rock one with a subtle blue houndstooth plaid.

Down low, I'm rocking tailored grey wool trousers with some brown captoe oxfords... keeping it real simple. It's those small details, and regular attention to those small details, that assist in creating a style all your own.

Blazer-Paoloni
Shirt-Brooks Brothers Extra Slim
Tie: J. Crew
Pants: Theory
Shoes: Aldo
Pocket Square: George by Wal Mart (don't sleep on those Wal Mart square man!)

Pleats Are For Lovers

2010-09-16T15:09:00.001-04:00

photo credit unknown

The discussion surrounding the current sartorial freshness of pleated pants has been going on for a little while on Tumblr as well as around the internet. Some say that they are great, fashion forward and should be in every man's wardrobe. Other's say never, EVER rock pleated pants as they are the male equivalent to "mom jeans". I fall in between these two extremes: while not a necessity, I think that pleated pants can be a great addition to a man's wardrobe if done properly.
There are certain truths that need to be acknowledged about pleated pants. The big truth is that 99% of them look like crap. Pleats add a lot of extra fabric to a man's midsection making even the trimmest of man appear as though he has child bearing hips. They also tend to have a very full cut, as the vast majority of clothing makers present pleated pants as a "comfortable" alternative to flat front pants. Somewhere down the line in America, we equated fabric not touching our bodies with comfort: the more fabric that touches your skin the less inherent comfort those clothes provide. This couldn't be further from the truth (if you wear quality fabrics you actually want to feel it) but I digress. The other truth is a derivative of the lack of coolness: nice trim fitting pleated pants are REALLY hard to find. For this reason, fashion purveyors like GQ, Details, and Esquire totally bash pleated pants and have been pushing flat front pants for some time now. That said, pleated pants can be a killer piece in a man's wardrobe if executed properly. Here is how you do it:
1. The pants need to be well tailored throughout. Pleats are intended for style as well as functionality, and they don't need to be loose in order to provide range of movement: they exist so you can have range of movement without a lot of looseness. Get rid of any extra room in the thighs, seat, and legs.
2. No more than 2 pleats. Personally, I think one pleat is the sweet spot for looking sharp and fashion forward is 1 pleat. In particular, I like 1 pleat looks better than 2 when wearing trousers with no jacket. It's just a cleaner sharper loop.
3. Pleated pants must be worn at your natural waist: no exceptions. I know lower rises are what's hot, but these should be worn at your actual waist. If you don't know your natural waist, find your belly button and go down about an inch. Should be somewhere in that area...
4. No crease is not an option. Your pleated trousers should have a crease so sharp you can split atoms on it. A cuff, on the other hand, is optional.
As per the styling, you can basically treat them just like any other dress trouser. I will say that double pleats tend to be more formal, so they may not jive well with a polo. I recently was working a college fair and there was a young man is slim single pleat trousers and a trim polo and he was markedly better dressed than his peers. Because they should be rather crisp with a crease, nicer shirts tend to work better (though very trim single pleat pants can look dope with a white v-neck and plimsolls in the summer). As for shoes, I would recommend hard bottoms: cap toe or wingtip, simple or brogues. You could even go dress boots in the colder weather.

The above is Dockers' not so affordable slim pleated chino offering
When it comes to where to buy them, the affordable options are very slim (no pun intended) and really aren't that affordable when you get down to it. There are three brands right now that have solid fit options: Banana Republic, J. Crew, and Dockers. They all come in at about $200 and they are all in the slimmest fit offered by the brands. You can also cruise sites like www.bluefly.com or www.yoox.com as you may be able to scoop some of the higher end offerings at a discount. For many guys reading, though, your best (read: most affordable) option might just be to take an old pair of pleated trousers to the tailor and have them take in the seat, thighs, and legs. While they may not have the lower rise that the aforementioned options have, they will have lower price points.
Shouts out to Gabe at www.pleatsareforlovers.tumblr.com for unknowingly providing me with the perfect title for this post.

Don't Make Me Get My Belt

2010-09-16T14:53:00.001-04:00

[photo: GQ]
The title of this post was something I heard a lot as a kid... but fear not it is not on whether corporal punishment is appropriate for young kids. This is about the style trend of going beltless. I know trends aren't something that is generally endorsed for guys here at Dd, but this is something worth discussing.
Recently, I posted about dress pants (trousers if you will) and how undervalued they have become in men's closets. I debated internally whether or not to post a belt in the look and ultimately I vetoed it. I think rocking trousers with no belt is so clean you GOTTA do it. Generally speaking, you shouldn't need to wear a belt with your dress pants/trousers (or other pants for that matter). Belts should be an accessory akin to a watch or tie: while not needed, you still look damn good when you wear one. Going belt-less can provide a very clean look, particularly this Fall if you are wearing a sweater over a button down you don't want the fabric to bunch at your midsection from a belt. Pants with either tab fronts (like the one's above) or side tabs tend to look the best for going without a belt. For the daring, having the belt loops removed from tab front pants can look KILLER. Dan T. aka The Style Blogger has done all the above. Pants with front and side tabs, hold the belt loops. Super clean:

[photo: Dan Trepanier]
Here Maxwell rocks the front tabs with the belt loops and no belt, still cooler than sipping a milkshake in a snow storm:

[photo: GQ]
It is a little hard to tell to the untrained eye, but Jay Baruchel is layered up without a belt and you don't get a lot of fabric bunching up in the front because of a buckle:

[photo: GQ]
One group of men that going belt-less can greatly help is shorter men. Wearing a belt cuts your frame in half, making you appear shorter. Without the belt, you have cleaner lines and it allows the eye to travel more fluidly down your silhouette making you appear taller. If you are larger and have a bit of a gut, belts can constrict you below your stomach making it appear Bigger. Big guys, particularly ones that aren't super big, should try to go belt-less with higher waisted pants or try rocking suspenders.
Going belt-less isn't for everyone, though. If you are very tall (6'5"+), wearing a belt will help divide your build so you won't appear as freakishly tall as people may think you are. Being 6'3, I'm on the fringe so sometimes I rock belts:

and sometimes I don't:

(I know it's hard to tell... but there is no belt in this pic)

Remember Dress Pants?

2010-09-16T14:46:00.002-04:00

photo credit GQ

Over the past few years, there has been a big push in the men's style world of slim fitting chinos. The blogs I read do it, I do it, and with good reason: they are a great pant and they really can be dressed up or down. That said, actual dress pants have taken a backseat to their casual cousin. Well no longer! Dress pants are dope. Hit the jump and find out why.
Chinos are cherished for their versatility: they are like jeans only they aren't. Generally, people recommend grabbing some chinos, ironing a crease in them and pairing with a blazer, dress shirt, tie, and hard bottoms for a good dressed up look. Dress pants get glanced over because of their perceived lack of versatility, but for the more advanced sartorialist dress pants can be about as versatile as chinos. Some may ask what separates chinos from dress pants. A big differentiating feature is the fabric: typically dress pants are going to be made of wool (or some blend) or a higher grade of cotton twill that may even have a slight sheen to it compared to the more muted and washed chino. Another differentiator is the crease: typically dress pants come creased and some have some sort of permanent or semi-permanent crease in them. Chinos a lot of times don't come creased and generally don't hold creases well. Now that the background stuff is out of the way, let's get to the meat and potatoes. One of the keys to making dress pants more casual is to pair them with casual pieces that are more dressy. Take this look:

photo credit GQ

Here we have dress pants with a short sleeve button up. The shirt itself isn't overly washed or distressed, so it doesn't look out of place with the pants. The wing tips look great, but this look could have just as easily been worn with some canvas sneakers.
This next look is courtesy of The Style Blogger:

photo credit Dan Trepanier

Here he pretty much made an entire suit a casual look, but if your stuff is tailored right you should be able to do it too. Suit pants can be a little tricky because many suit makers don't make suit pants with lower rises that many younger guys have become accustom to in our chinos and jeans. But then again, if you go than Don Draper swag there's nothing wrong with rocking a white t with high waisted pants. Something Dan T's above look should be a reminder of is the companies like J. Crew with modern fitting suits: you could get an entire suit from them and break the individual pieces down into great casual looks like he does here.
How would I rock dress pants casually? Well I would start with some pants like this from J. Crew:

Then up top I would keep it simple with a white v-neck t:

Over that I would go with a simple cardigan like this dope joint from Brooks Brothers:

Fall is right around the corner, so a baseball jacket might be necessary:

Then for kick, you already know we are rockin' boots all Fall!:

Why You Don't Need A Black Suit

2010-09-16T14:24:00.004-04:00

All photos from GQ

*But if you want/have one, here is how you should wear it.
A really common misconception is that ever man should own a black suit. I fell into this category until about a year and a half ago when I realized a.) I rarely wore the black suit that I owned b.) as flattering as it was on me, it was inappropriate for most occasions. Why was it in appropriate? Well a black suit is very strong in an office setting, so unless you work in a creative field, are in upper-level management, are a lawyer, or work in a funeral home, most people look a little out of place wearing black suits to work. Black suits also are not, I repeat, NOT formal attire. So when you get that invite that says "Black tie attire requested" (or "Black tie optional" for that matter), it means wear a tux. So what is a black suit good for? One word: clubbin'.

I'm kidding... Sort of. Black suits are great for "after 6" functions. Whether it is a night on the town or a dinner with friends. As far as look, simple 2 button jackets and plain front pants get the job done (3 button jackets just aren't as cool). Its really the fit that makes this look work. Everything needs to be well tailored. Pants shouldn't billow, they should be trim and not too long (pants with no break is a great look). The jacket should fit close to the body and the sleeves should be tailored so they look like they were made for your arms and only your arms. Closely tailored sleeves allows you to wear both long sleeve and short sleeve shirts underneath and not have that "I have too much jacket sleeve fabric" look.
As far as what goes underneath, the options are endless... just don't look like a clown. You can go with the understated look and just put on a white shirt. You can go for the life of the party and rock a shirt with some color. You can do long sleeves. You can do short sleeves (only if you took my advice and had those jacket sleeves tailored though!). Polo shirts, dress shirts, casual shirts. Again the options are endless, but the are a few unwritten rules about the black suit. If you wear a black shirt, don't wear a tie with it. It just looks tacky. Red and black combos generally look bad and, lastly, black suits look best with a beautiful woman on your arm. Check the examples below.